Thursday, June 14

S m i f f


This past weekend (6/9-6/11) Andrew, Jimmy, and I decided to pay a visit to Smith Rocks, OR. Initially the plan was to head north for granite climbing in Squamish but the forecast was a bit too soggy for our liking so we made the most of crimping and pinching on the volcanic stuff down south. 

Andrew picked me up Saturday, shortly after 6am and we were off to pick up Jimmy and make our way down to the park. We made good time and were greeted by idyllic weather. 

Rock climbing here is great (duh!). Here's a list of the routes we climbed/attempted:

Double Trouble, 5.10b
Nine Gallon Buckets Extension, 5.10c (warm-up Saturday and Monday)
Magic Light, 5.11a
Monkey Space, 5.11b (Monkey Face route I flashed)
Magic Light Extension, 5.12a (I one-hanged this one)
Latin Lover, 5.12a (only Andrew and Jimmy climbed on this one)
Vision, 5.12b (I redpointed this on Sunday~ stOked = one off my bucket list for this sector*) 
Crossfire, 5.12b (I surprised myself how far I got on flash attempt of headwall... will return)
Chain Reaction, 5.12c (I nearly repeated this one... fell on last move!)
Churning in the Wake, 5.13a (this is gonna take more work -_-)

*
The Dihedrals
Latest Rage 5.12b, bolts
Watt’s Tots 5.12b, bolts
Latin Lover 5.12a, bolts
Crossfire 5.12b, mixed
Sunshine Dihedral 5.11d, bolts
Take a Powder 5.12a, bolts
Peepshow 5.12a/b, bolts
Chain Reaction 5.12c, bolts
French Connection 5.13b, bolts
Last Waltz 5.12c, bolts
Heinous Cling 5.12c R, bolts
Darkness at Noon 5.13a, bolts
Vision 5.12b, bolts 
Go Dog Go 5.12c, bolts
To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a, bolts

On Sunday, we went to the Bend Brewing Company to meet up with Ryan, fresh off his recent historic send of Just Do It, 5.14c (awesome)!   Later on, we met up with Lisa and her coworker Ramiro at the campsite. 

The whole trip was a nice opportunity to kick back, eat good, laugh hard, climb with little pressure/expectations, and just enjoy good company. 

we didn't go here.

Sisters - Central Oregon

(Andrew + Jimmy + Nick) x 1st day of trip = psych'd !


spot the climbers?

Campsite : )

Asterisk pass in the morning

Me climbing Karate Crack, 5.10a
photo courtesy of Jimmy Chulich

headed towards the headwall of Crossfire, 5.12b
photo courtesy of Jimmy Chulich 


Jimmy, Lisa, and Churning in the Wake, 5.13a

Vision, 5.12b 

Sunset

Sunrise
  
The world-class Saturday Night Raffle at the Bivy Campground! 
Fun had by all... I won a tricked out chalk bag.

Monkey Face


Following up the 5.5 first pitch of the Pioneer Route to the ledge on the west face 

Me starting off on the 5.11a traverse of Monkey Space - the most popular way to free climb Monkey Face (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/monkey-space/105791523)

Flashed the crux - nauseating exposure!


Chillin in the cave feet dangling over the North Face, 5.12a 

nearing the completion of a great climb and trip


Blessings.

NM


2 comments:

Micah Bryan Humphrey said...

You know how much I love a story that has a tricked out chalk bag in it :)
Nice job guys!

Andrew said...

You spelled his name wrong again!