Saturday, July 18

Californication 5.13a ... CHECK!

        last few moves of Californicator 5.12d before crux section of Technorigine 5.12c guarding chains of Californication 5.13a 
(yeah, there are linkups at Little Si)

Today, I sent... finally.
It's been epic...
                          like, BIBLICAL.
Wasp stings at the chains, 90 + degree heat, punting like a loser past the last draw kinda epic, but now it's over and you know what? It feels great!

I intend to "recreate" the send on film along with some other Little Si action with friends so stay tuned!

First 5.13 in two years, but it won't be the last now that the fitness is back! It means a lot being a career working/family man now and still proving to myself that I got what it takes ! Onto bigger projects!!!

Friday, March 20

Pōkō ä ˈPōkō

post-rappel from the anchors of Techno

On Wednesday, March 18th, my friend Andrew and I made it out to Little Si's World Wall 1. 
This was my first trip out there this year, and third (I think) since returning to the Northwest last fall. 
Although no sends were had on this day it was a great day to me... the conditions were pretty good, the crag was silent, I got to witness my friend climbing stronger than I'd ever seen, and I felt a lightness, ease, and playfulness in my own climbing that I'd nearly forgotten is possible.

It was a valuable opportunity for me to take inventory of training needs too. 
Finger strength is coming along good, cruxes/crimps felt easier, feet weren't slipping, but need more campus board, core-work, 4x4s, droplet 3x3s, and meditation.

My plan at Si is same as everyone's : some more linkups/extensions!

... little by little...

Back to training for now.
Good things are on the horizon this season... 



Tuesday, January 27

B  I    S      H    O  P

1.16 - 1.20 in the 2,015th year of our Lord

My wife and I decided to rally down to Bishop during a six day break from work. Needless to say I was very satisfied:

  1. to be headed outdoors so early in the year
  2. pebble wrestling at Bishop again (duH!) ... 1st time in six years!
  3. superb winter free climbing weather (note: global warming is still shitty...particularly for my snow sports brethren~ sorry Mammoth)

TOP1O highlights:

  1. finally found success on both High Plains Drifter and Saigon in the Buttermilks!
  2. stayed at Holiday Inn ...replete with a sauna, hot tub, & swimming pool; which was very nice for recovery
  3. Glo explored some trails and rocks with me at the Happy Boulders
  4. got close(r) on Iron Fly 
  5. purchased the wonderful guidebook for the area (finally)
  6. sent v7 variation of Go Granny Go I didn't know about (thanks guidebook.)
  7. was in town during the excitement of Daniel Woods' historic FA of The Process v15/16... definitely one of the craziest hard blocs in the world
  8. nearly sent Morning Dove White (the beta is figured out clear and concise in my mind for when I make my reunion with that rock)
  9. skin devastation and injuries (yay)
  10. 32 hours of driving! 

Here's some media from the trip...



See y'all out there, 


Tuesday, January 13


To find my limit.

    Get after it and pull that trigger

Friday, February 21

Tuesday, January 28

Happy 2014 !!!

Reflecting on 2013 and looking forward to the year ahead, I thought I'd get "back on the horse" with the blog.  

The completion of my climbing-related goals for 2013 were a mix-bag. I had stated 2013 was for:

Wow. I didn't do any multipitch climbing, no trad climbing, a few (3) trips to the New River Gorge, WV, I flirted with training, didn't onsight much or send any projects ... I've come to the conclusion that I have no business making goals. lol ... well, I did finally manage to do a one-arm pull-up! Oh yeah I tore my medial meniscus in my left knee, get this, traversing ....warming up.

[sigh] dirty thirties are here.

Looking ahead to this year, I am stoked on:
  • advancing my route setting
  • getting outside more
  • remaining injury free (i.e. meditating, praying, yoga, eating better, rest, warming up before I warm up, not doing insane drop knees, shoulder moves, monos or anything else that 16 year old climbers attempt!) 
  • doing smarter/focused training
  • maximizing climbing time
  • working my weaknesses
  • getting back to my strong aerobic base (hello! running, biking, jump rope, swimming!)
As for today:

Minus falling and getting rope burn on my neck that looks in between a hickey and a hyena bite, today was great! Felt strong bouldering in gym today and set three (3) routes !

Blessings and Inspiration your way, 


P.S. More soon... 

Friday, May 24

A favorite ...

Nic Sends Narcissus from FLAPPERfilms on Vimeo.

(footage courtesy of Suradetch)

Thursday, January 17

(footage courtesy of Chase Olson)

Fridge Left V8 @ Leavenworth... I'd tried this problem on and off for six (6) years! Lol... proudest boulder I climbed in 2o12!



Monday, December 31

Happy New Year!

2012 was a pretty awesome year! I redpointed a couple 5.13's, climbed some long-standing projects, worked as head route setter and youth climbing coach at Warehouse Rock Gym, and realized a dream climbing Half Dome (Regular Northwest Face, Grade IV, 23 pitches, 2200', 5.9, C1 team ascent, 2 days) with my friend Andrew Hou.

I'm looking forward to trad climbing, onsight climbing, projecting boulder problems and sport routes, new training routines, multipitch climbing, one-arm pull-ups, and more road trips in 2013!


Friday, August 31


Rough approximation of Gerbil Killer 5.13a 
(note: two variations for the start- I intend to accomplish both)

Wednesday, August 29th I found success on one of my hardest graded sport climbs to date: Gerbil Killer. This is my 3rd 5.13- redpoint; one each the last 3 consecutive years.

I'd felt close on this route and Crawling from the Wreckage at Bob's Area but was unsure if success would come on either prior to leaving for California. I'm very happy to have this send under my belt before leaving for Yosemite next week! 

The first go of the day I felt strong... I confidently floated through the first cruxes and soon found myself staring down the  "Psycho" crux sequence guarding the chains.  I executed sloppily, was overthinking and overgripping as the pump kicked in and finally fell two moves from the victory rail. I dangled limp in the air for a moment, then grasped the rock and sped through the sequence to the chains in frustration. Although I one-hung it, I felt the sting of disappointment from unmet potential ... I knew my fitness and beta for this route were complete, all that was missing was for me to give a complete effort.

The second time, I climbed "to get my gear back" - no expectations. I really thought that my first go was my best I could manage for the day so I resigned myself from the hope of a redpoint... I just climbed. Struggling and breathing hard I made it to the final rest... Tim reminded me to rest longer than I think I needed. I heard people yelling up to me encouragements, I counted my breathing (inhale for 2, exhale for 4), my eyes raced alternating foothold stances while my mind raced with thoughts and then finally it all stopped...complete silence; my heartrate slowed, my breathing relaxed, I was fully recovered, I was ready... setting off, mind  calm, body responsive, and senses attentive, I grabbed the last holds of the final crux, and roared for all I was worth as I reached... fingers securely into the victory hold, just as gravity pulled at me once again, this time too late. 

note: my beta for "Psycho crux" involves: 1. hitting the sidepull with my right hand 2. gastoning left 3. tacking right foot on small foothold 4. placing left on rail near last draw 5. standing up to left small handhold 6. bumping right hand to second higher sidepull 7. getting left foot onto higher foothold & finally 8. bumping left hand to catch the corner of the finger jug/pod that marks the beginning of the victory rail 

P.S. Shout out to my brother Oni who came along with us ... rock climbing outside for the very first time!