last few moves of CalifornicATOR .12d before crux section of Technorigine .12c guarding chains of CalifornicATION
(Little Si,- land of linkups)
Today, I finally sent.
It's been epic...
Fitness regressions (plural!), wasp stings at the chains, 90 + degree heat, punting like a newB past the last draw kinda epic, but now it's over, and you know what? It feels great!
I intend to "recreate" the send on film along with some other Little Si action with friends so stay tuned!
First 5.13 in two years, but it won't be the last now that the fitness is back! It means a lot being a career working/family man now and still proving to myself that I got what it takes ! Onto bigger projects!!!
On Wednesday, March 18th, my friend Andrew and I made it out to Little Si's World Wall 1.
This was my first trip out there this year, and third (I think) since returning to the Northwest last fall.
Although no sends were had on this day it was a great day to me... the conditions were pretty good, the crag was silent, I got to witness my friend climbing stronger than I'd ever seen, and I felt a lightness, ease, and playfulness in my own climbing that I'd nearly forgotten is possible.
It was a valuable opportunity for me to take inventory of training needs too.
Finger strength is coming along good, cruxes/crimps felt easier, feet weren't slipping, but need more campus board, core-work, 4x4s, droplet 3x3s, and meditation.
My plan at Si is same as everyone's : some more linkups/extensions!
Wow. I didn't do any multipitch climbing, no trad climbing, a few (3) trips to the New River Gorge, WV, I flirted with training, didn't onsight much or send any projects ... I've come to the conclusion that I have no business making goals. lol ... well, I did finally manage to do a one-arm pull-up! Oh yeah I tore my medial meniscus in my left knee, get this, traversing ....warming up.
[sigh] dirty thirties are here.
Looking ahead to this year, I am stoked on:
advancing my route setting
getting outside more
remaining injury free (i.e. meditating, praying, yoga, eating better, rest, warming up before I warm up, not doing insane drop knees, shoulder moves, monos or anything else that 16 year old climbers attempt!)
doing smarter/focused training
maximizing climbing time
working my weaknesses
getting back to my strong aerobic base (hello! running, biking, jump rope, swimming!)
As for today:
Minus falling and getting rope burn on my neck that looks in between a hickey and a hyena bite, today was great! Felt strong bouldering in gym today and set three (3) routes !
2012 was a pretty awesome year! I redpointed a couple 5.13's, climbed some long-standing projects, worked as head route setter and youth climbing coach at Warehouse Rock Gym, and realized a dream climbing Half Dome (Regular Northwest Face, Grade IV, 23 pitches, 2200', 5.9, C1 team ascent, 2 days) with my friend Andrew Hou.
I'm looking forward to trad climbing, onsight climbing, projecting boulder problems and sport routes, new training routines, multipitch climbing, one-arm pull-ups, and more road trips in 2013!