Instagram

Tuesday, November 4

"I'm completely in sync with what the rock can do, that it's almost as if it's asking something of you. It's like impersonal music - it's not written as music but some geological quirk has made it into a piece of music which, when you listen to it, makes you dance. And if you really pay attention to the dance, the harder the route gets, the more blank and featureless it is, the better and more complex is the message you get from the rock."

Johnny Dawes

Friday, February 21

Tuesday, January 28

Happy 2014 !!!

Reflecting on 2013 and looking forward to the year ahead, I thought I'd get "back on the horse" with the blog.  

The completion of my climbing-related goals for 2013 were a mix-bag. I had stated 2013 was for:



Wow. I didn't do any multipitch climbing, no trad climbing, a few (3) trips to the New River Gorge, WV, I flirted with training, didn't onsight much or send any projects ... I've come to the conclusion that I have no business making goals. lol ... well, I did finally manage to do a one-arm pull-up! Oh yeah I tore my medial meniscus in my left knee, get this, traversing ....warming up.


[sigh] dirty thirties are here.

Looking ahead to this year, I am stoked on:
  • advancing my route setting
  • getting outside more
  • remaining injury free (i.e. meditating, praying, yoga, eating better, rest, warming up before I warm up, not doing insane drop knees, shoulder moves, monos or anything else that 16 year old climbers attempt!) 
  • doing smarter/focused training
  • maximizing climbing time
  • working my weaknesses
  • getting back to my strong aerobic base (hello! running, biking, jump rope, swimming!)
As for today:

Minus falling and getting rope burn on my neck that looks in between a hickey and a hyena bite, today was great! Felt strong bouldering in gym today and set three (3) routes !

Blessings and Inspiration your way, 

NM

P.S. More soon... 

Friday, May 24

A favorite ...

Nic Sends Narcissus from FLAPPERfilms on Vimeo.

(footage courtesy of Suradetch)

Thursday, January 17


(footage courtesy of Chase Olson)

Fridge Left V8 @ Leavenworth... I'd tried this problem on and off for six (6) years! Lol... proudest boulder I climbed in 2o12!

Peace

NM

Monday, December 31

Happy New Year!

2012 was a pretty awesome year! I redpointed a couple 5.13's, climbed some long-standing projects, worked as head route setter and youth climbing coach at Warehouse Rock Gym, and realized a dream climbing Half Dome (Regular Northwest Face, Grade IV, 23 pitches, 2200', 5.9, C1 team ascent, 2 days) with my friend Andrew Hou.

I'm looking forward to trad climbing, onsight climbing, projecting boulder problems and sport routes, new training routines, multipitch climbing, one-arm pull-ups, and more road trips in 2013!


                   

Friday, August 31

GERBIL KILLER 5.13a/7c+

Rough approximation of Gerbil Killer 5.13a 
(note: two variations for the start- I intend to accomplish both)

Wednesday, August 29th I found success on one of my hardest graded sport climbs to date: Gerbil Killer. This is my 3rd 5.13- redpoint; one each the last 3 consecutive years.

I'd felt close on this route and Crawling from the Wreckage at Bob's Area but was unsure if success would come on either prior to leaving for California. I'm very happy to have this send under my belt before leaving for Yosemite next week! 

The first go of the day I felt strong... I confidently floated through the first cruxes and soon found myself staring down the  "Psycho" crux sequence guarding the chains.  I executed sloppily, was overthinking and overgripping as the pump kicked in and finally fell two moves from the victory rail. I dangled limp in the air for a moment, then grasped the rock and sped through the sequence to the chains in frustration. Although I one-hung it, I felt the sting of disappointment from unmet potential ... I knew my fitness and beta for this route were complete, all that was missing was for me to give a complete effort.

The second time, I climbed "to get my gear back" - no expectations. I really thought that my first go was my best I could manage for the day so I resigned myself from the hope of a redpoint... I just climbed. Struggling and breathing hard I made it to the final rest... Tim reminded me to rest longer than I think I needed. I heard people yelling up to me encouragements, I counted my breathing (inhale for 2, exhale for 4), my eyes raced alternating foothold stances while my mind raced with thoughts and then finally it all stopped...complete silence; my heartrate slowed, my breathing relaxed, I was fully recovered, I was ready... setting off, mind  calm, body responsive, and senses attentive, I grabbed the last holds of the final crux, and roared for all I was worth as I reached... falling....my fingers securely into the victory hold, just as gravity pulled at me once again, this time too late. 

note: my beta for "Psycho crux" involves: 1. hitting the sidepull with my right hand 2. gastoning left 3. tacking right foot on small foothold 4. placing left on rail near last draw 5. standing up to left small handhold 6. bumping right hand to second higher sidepull 7. getting left foot onto higher foothold & finally 8. bumping left hand to catch the corner of the finger jug/pod that marks the beginning of the victory rail 

P.S. Shout out to my brother Oni who came along with us ... rock climbing outside for the very first time!



Blessings 

NM

Thursday, August 30

YOSEMITE TRIP CONFIRMED !

Andrew and I are headed to Yosemite on Monday, September 3rd .

PPPSSSYYYCCCHHH'''DDD!

Saturday, August 18

Mt Washington - Bob's Area with Scott Ruby

PART 1 
Today, Ruby and I headed to Mt. Washington to climb at Bob's Area. I've been there several times but Scott hadn't been there yet.

We got lost on the hike in (at the fork we went right for about a mile towards Valley View West before realizing we weren't headed the right direction) but eventually made our way up to one of the very highest areas - Slumbersome Ridge. After warming up on a couple moderate slab climbs Slumbersome Ridge, 5.6 and Autumnal Equinox, 5.7, Scott and I made our way down to the Lost Resort area for our main objectives of the day: Firing Up Bob- a four star 5.10c and Crawling from the Wreckage- a three star 5.13a I've been on a couple times before.

Scott, impressively flashed Firing Up Bob on TR and I got Crawling from the Wreckage beta figured out that will work for me; I thought I was going to send on my last go of the day, but will look forward to returning...

We both look forward to returning! We ended the day with some good food, drinks, and company at the Mt. Si Tavern : )

Saturday, August 11

NEW TRAINING MODE

Yay... I am finally not sore after Tuesday's workout lol. Jimmy and Kevin kindly invited me to partake in their tuesday night workouts (madness): gymnastic rings , weighted hang board, absuicides, static bouldering, cave boulder projects, pinches, Kevin's frenchies, etc. ...these guys are either trying to kill me or make me a better rock climber, I'm not sure yet! One thing I am convinced of is that I can try A LOT harder to get  A LOT better at climbing. More ahead to incorporate and to commit to. It's a little intimidating and completely exciting at the same time.

I am also really looking forward to working with the Warehouse Rock Gym team this upcoming fall.



All for now.

God's Blessings,

NM